These units rarely blow. So this way you can test it with a good multimeter.

HOW TO TEST MODULE(V-4)

With a Digital Multimeter, set meter to Diode Test.

With IGNITOR not installed, press two prongs of meter together, they should read 0.00

Test 1

Then with new module, contact red meter wire to red Ignitor wire and black meter wire to base plate, it should read about 1.15 or 1150

Faulty Unit

*If system has blown, will read (0.520 / 520 ), normally power transistor

has blown due to coil overload .

* If power transistor has been damaged, will read .800 to .900

· If shows a ( 1 ) on meter, there is a break in wire, a terminal is loose,

or has internal break inside module

· If module smells of smoke/burnt, this would show that has been destroyed by connection wires incorrectly(wrong polarity), or that have fitted electronic or faulty coil with internal shorts. No warrantee normally on these items.

Test 2

Then with new module, contact BLACK meter wire to BLACK Ignitor wire and RED meter wire to BASE plate, it should read about 0.680 to 0.720.

A failed unit will read about 0.520 or 1(open circuit)

Test 3

Then with new module, contact red meter wire to red Ignitor wire and black meter wire to black Ignitor wire, it should read about 1.15 to 1.25.

A failed unit will read 0.520 to 0.540 , or 1.400 to 1.450

General tests.

*With system in vehicle, connect voltmeter to coil positive. Turn starter, voltage should vary between 0 and

9 volts. If stays on 0.5 volt, then system has failed.

· Crank starter and see that voltage on coil positive remains between 8 to 12 volts. System shuts down at

· 6 Volts.

* Check for unbroken earth wire inside distributor.