22 June 2006




I am thinking of Importing Hydraulic Winches ex USA.

If you are interested let me know please ?

Introductory offer:

9000 Lbs 2-speed Winch  861.79
10 500 Lbs 2-speed Winch  885.15
Valve kit for Toyota, etc,  73.37


This price excludes VAT and 10 % Customs surcharge and is quoted in USD.

I can only do this price if at least 10 people are interested (so far I got 3).

Otherwise there will be a freight surcharge of close to 100 USD.

I need to know by this Wednesday please.


A quick background:

These winches are now retrofitted to most small military vehicles (Hummer etc.) in Iraq, as the Electric Winches were not robust enough. This Winch does NOT break !

As long as your Motor runs and spins the stock power steering pump, the winch will do its job.


The main reason I am campaigning these Winches is not because of their durability or value, but because they do not impact the electric system. On a normal electric winch you have close to 4000 Watt (under ideal conditions) being drawn suddenly out of your electrical system. If there is a problem, such as frayed wires or a unhappy voltage regulator your system will give some horrible voltage spikes. Resulting in a blown ECU (computer box). The control solenoid of the hydraulic winch draws less than 2A !

To put it into perspective; if you have a wonky earth in your system showing a 0.04 V difference in signal, that will already make your ECU unhappy. An article on this is planned for the near future.



With the Hunting/Camping season in full swing, there are a few products I stock hat might be of use to you:

You know the American multipurpose tool that rhymes with Weatherman:

Gerber 700 Urban Legend Multitool. Ergonomically contoured aluminium handles with rubber inserts for a sure grip. The pliers are spring loaded for ease of use. Patented replaceable tungsten carbide inserts allow extreme wire cutting abilities.    N$ 770.04 incl.

The latest addition to the Gerber Multi-tool family. The bridges of Portland inspired new breakthrough open-frame styling on the butterfly-opening handle. The pliers are spring loaded and the components all have the Gerber patented Saf.T.Plus locking system     N$ 374.33 incl.


Also I have 2 new Riflescopes that might come in Handy:

UC 2019 2-7 X 32 with adjustable Parallax       ideal for a .22                         R  561.49

UC 2115 6-24 X 50 mil dot and parallax             for a Sniping rifle                  R 1746.85


Finally with the expected power outages I have a number of 220 or 12v Rechargeable Lights that either switch on Automatically when night falls or the Power fails, one of these is the MS5103 – 12V / 220V Emergency Lamp


Supplying light when others can’t.

The Emergency Lamp is a compact unit that can be either wall mounted in a convenient spot close to a power source to provide maximum light or it may be free standing. The ergonomic European housing is attractive and unobtrusive so that it will not clash with your houses décor.


The compact size is great for taking on camping trips, and when used at home takes up very little space. It is portable as it has a convenient fold away carrying handle, so the unit may be easily moved around the camp or from room to room during a power failure.


When plugged into a 220V power source with the switch in the on position, the unit will automatically charge and in the event of a power failure it will switch on so there will be no need to go looking for matches or a torch in the dark. This greatly reduces the chances of accidentally tripping over items in the dark during a power failure. The unit may also be charged using your vehicles 12V DC cigarette lighter adaptor, which makes this unit ideal for camping or general use where there are no 220V power sources available.


When not plugged into a power source the unit operates from a rechargeable 6V 4ah gel-cell battery. The lantern has an on/off switch for operation at your discretion. The constant “on” time is 4 to 5 hours from a full charge. It takes approximately 16 to 20 hours to fully recharge the battery. A convenient red indicator light will glow when the unit is on charge. The built-in Discharge and Overcharge protector allows for a longer battery life and lets the user leave the unit connected to a 220V source without fear of damaging the battery.


The SU4P 9Watt fluorescent tube is fixed in front of a concaved silver reflector making the Emergency Lantern 200% brighter than most other lanterns available on the market. A translucent durable plastic cover protects the fluorescent tube and the silver reflector from damage.


· Length: 167mm · Width: 75mm · Breadth: 75mm · Weight: 1.16kg · Cables: 12V DC Cigarette lighter adaptor and a 220V AC cable with a two pin plug · Warranty: 1 Year.


These type of lights retail from 55.26 to 206.77 including VAT and a smile.

Apart from this we also carry rechargeable spotlights (10 000 000 cp @ 442.06 N$)

We are also the agents for Cyclops LED Headlights (103.39) and MagLites (also if you need parts).

GlooToob Emergency markers start at 112.30


Then I carry Hip Flasks, Hammocks, Excell batteries (Alkaline at an affordable price), Autobecher & Thermos, Lighters, Knives and Binoculars.



Last time I sourced an article on Fuel Mixtures and how Rich does not equal good. Here is one that tries to explain how much spark advance you should dial in.

Spark Timing Myths Debunked

A widely-held myth is that maximum advance always means maximum power.  Here’s what’s wrong with this thinking:

The spark plug ignites the mixture and the fire starts burning. The speed of this flame front depends on the mixture, this means how many air and fuel molecules are packed together in the combustion chamber. The closer they are packed together in the same volume, the easier it is for the fire to jump from one set of molecules to the other. The burning speed is also dependent on the air-fuel-ratio. At about 12.5 to 13 air-fuel-ratio the mixture burns fastest. A leaner mixture than that burns slower. A richer mixture also burns slower. That's why the maximum power mixture is at the fastest burn speed. It takes some time for this flame front to consume all the fuel in the combustion chamber. As it burns, the pressure and temperature in the cylinder increases. This pressure peaks at some point after TDC. Many experiments have shown that the optimum position for this pressure peak is about 15 to 20 degrees after TDC. The exact location of the optimum pressure peak is actually independent of engine load or RPM, but dependent on engine geometry.

Typically all the mixture is burned before about 70 deg ATDC. But because the mixture density and AFR in the engine change all the time, the fire has to be ignited just at the right time to get the peak pressure at the optimal point. As the engine speed increases, you need to ignite the mixture in the combustion chamber earlier because there is less time between spark and optimum peak pressure angle. If the mixture density is changed due to for example boost or higher compression ratio, the spark has to be ignited later to hit the same optimal point.

If the mixture is ignited to early, the piston is still moving up towards TDC as the pressure from the burning mixture builds. This has several effects:

Many people with aftermarket turbos don't change the spark advance very much, believing that earlier spark creates more power. To combat knock they make the mixture richer. All that happens really then is that the mixture burns slower and therefore hits the peak pressure closer to the right point. This of course reaffirms the belief that the richer mixture creates more power. In reality the flame front speed was adjusted to get the right peak pressure point. The same result (with more power, less emissions and less fuel consumption) could be achieved by leaving the mixture at the leaner optimum and retarding the ignition more instead.

Turbo charging or increasing the compression ratio changes the mixture density (more air and fuel molecules are packed together). This increases the peak pressure and temperature. The pressure and temperature can get so high that the remaining unburned mixture ignites by itself at the hottest part in the combustion chamber. This self-ignition happens explosively and is called 'knock'. All engines knock somewhat. If there is very little unburned mixture remaining when it self-ignites, the explosion of that small amount does not cause any problems because it can't create a large, sharp pressure peak. Igniting the mixture later (retarding) causes the peak pressure to be much lower and cures the knock.

The advances in power of modern engines, despite the lower quality of gasoline today, comes partially from improvements in combustion chamber and spark plug location.  Modern engines are optimized so that the flame front has the least distance to travel and consumes the mixture as fast as possible. An already burned mixture can no longer explode and therefore higher compression ratios are possible with lower octane fuel. Some race or high performance engines actually have 2 or three spark plugs to ignite the mixture from multiple points. This is done so that the actual burn time is faster with multiple flame fronts. Again, this is to consume the mixture faster without giving it a chance to self-ignite.

Higher octane fuel is more resistant to self-ignition. It takes a higher temperature and pressure to cause it to burn by itself. That's why race fuels are used for engines with high compression or boost. Lead additives have been used, and are still used to raise the self-ignition threshhold of gasoline, but lead is toxic and therefore no longer used for pump-gas. Of course a blown engine is toxic to your wallet.




Warmest Regards




"Greed is a fat demon with a small mouth and whatever you feed it is never enough." - Janwillem van de Wetering